In the eastern part of the region lie the Hauraki Plains, best conceived as a shallow scoop draining towards the Firth of Thames by means of the Piako, Waitoa, and Waihou Rivers. The eastern and higher boundary is formed by the hills of the Coromandel and Kaimai Ranges which reach their highest point, 3,126 ft, close to Te Aroha. The western boundary is a lower, less distinct, and less continuous ridge which, nevertheless, rises to over 1,500 ft and abruptly contrasts with the lower lying land of the plains. The plains are dominantly a dairying region, with more fat-lamb farming included in the southern and western parts, and hence they have a characteristic landscape created by close subdivision, hedgerows, tar-sealed roads, and the close proximity of houses. Near Paeroa, in the central part of the plain, a large area of peat land remains undeveloped, and is used as a ponding area at flood time. Apart from a few small settlements, usually grouped round one of the large dairy factories, a number of small boroughs act as marketing and servicing centres for the surrounding communities. Of these the largest is Morrinsville, with a population of 4,111, followed by Matamata (3,298), one of the fastest growing towns in the region, and Te Aroha (3,060), the slowest growing town. Putaruru, which is situated at the southernmost part of the region, had a population of 3,551 in 1961, compared with 1,040 in 1945. This rapid growth has been associated with the development of the timber and agricultural resources of the Central Plateau, with whose fortunes those of Putaruru are more closely linked. This is even more true of Tokoroa, which, although located in Matamata county, is economically part of the Central Plateau. It owes its growth to the development of the pulp and paper industries at Kinleith. The town in 1951 had a population of only 1,193, but 10 years later it had reached 7,104.

The upper part of the Thames Valley around Matamata, being better drained, was settled much earlier than the low-lying, wetter districts of the Hauraki Plains. After the Maori Wars, exceedingly large estates were established on the light volcanic soils. The Matamata estate extended over 50,000 acres and, in 1899, carried 41,000 sheep, 2,600 cattle, and 184 horses, while 2,000 acres were under root crops and 500 under oats. About half the property was under scrub, fern, and undrained swamp. Eventually these large properties were broken up into smaller farms, either through private purchase and leasing or because of State intervention. The settlement of the Hauraki Plains occurred after the Act of 1908 which promoted the draining and settlement of 90,000 acres of Crown land. Previously the area was a morass and, even to the present period, a short length of railway line by which the milk cans were carted over the wet ground from the milking shed to the road remained a distinctive feature of the district. It was in these areas, especially, that the widespread use of concrete created a minor revolution in the housekeeping problems of farming wives.

Of all New Zealand regions Waikato-Hauraki is today the most favoured; a fortunate combination of soil, rainfall, and sunshine have assisted it to become one of the largest and most productive dairying districts. Its proximity to the port of Auckland has been a favourable factor in its development, but equally important has been the stimulation its development has received from the dynamic economy of the Auckland area. The increasing importance of the region in the nation's economy is revealed by the rapid rate of population growth since the turn of the century; and the manner in which Hamilton has risen from a small town of 1,284 persons in 1896 to become the leading city outside of the four main centres, is but one of the more striking aspects of this growth. The pre-eminence of the region is, however, relatively recent, the expansion and intensification of settlement having been retarded by the disturbances of the Maori Wars and then by the agronomic problems posed by the establishment of a dairying industry upon poorly drained, low-lying soils or upon volcanic soils displaying mineral deficiencies.

On the generalised soil map of New Zealand, the Waikato-Hauraki region is made one of the most distinctive regions by the expanse of yellow-brown loams derived from volcanic ash and by the concentration of peaty and gley soils in the Hauraki Plains and around the extensive swamp areas of the Waikato. These yellow-brown loams are easily worked, friable, open soils, demanding fertilisers and consolidation before they can carry first-class pastures. When these conditions are obtained, together with the warm climate of the region, they permit rapid spring growth and high productivity per acre. Both the organic and gley soils have high water tables and consequently need draining before they can support livestock. The organic or peaty soils demand particular care, for where the peats are acid overdrainage can spoil the soil structure. They require a recognition of local characteristics and careful fertiliser and stocking practices for successful farming.

The Waikato-Hauraki region is an extensive area of lowland some 55 miles wide and 70 miles in length to the south of Auckland. Bounded in the east and south by the Coromandel, Kaimai, and Mamaku Ranges and the edge of the Central Plateau, it reaches the Tasman Sea between Raglan Harbour and the mouth of the Waikato River. The six counties, Hauraki Plains, Piako, Matamata, Waipa, Waikato, and Raglan, correspond roughly to these boundaries and, together with their interior boroughs and cities, they constitute the principal basis for the collection of statistics. The Hamilton Urban Area (population 50,505, 1961) is the leading city of the region which in 1961 had a total population of 167,693 (6·93 per cent of the national total) of which 9·15 per cent were classed as Maoris.

Visitors passing through the lower Waikato area seldom realise the presence of a number of lakes between Huntly and Rangiriri, for these can be seen only from vantage points away from the main thoroughfare. In order of size the lakes consist of Waikare, 13·2 sq. miles; Whangape, 4·5 sq. miles; Wahi or Waahi, 1·94 sq. miles; Rotongaro, 1·7 sq. miles; Kimihia, 1·05 sq. miles; and Hakanoa, Karaka, and Okowhao, all of which are less than 1 sq. mile in area.

These lakes are shallow, nowhere deeper than 15 ft and commonly less than 10 ft, and they owe their origin to one common cause – the deposition of sediments from the Waikato River which was more rapid than deposition in its tributaries. Thus it is that the lakes are distributed on either side of the Waikato River, that their water levels are close to river level, that they are separated from the river by low plains, and that the remainder of their coasts border hill country.

Much of Lake Kimihia has disappeared as the result of stopbanking during the opencast mining for coal from below the lake, followed by subsequent infilling. Lake Hakanoa is being developed as a playground within the Huntly borough and the rest serve as ponding areas during major floods of the Waikato River. As such, they are likely to remain until it is economic to develop their clay-rich sediments as farm land. This would require continual pumping of lake areas to the Waikato River and further protection against floods both locally and in areas down stream.

by James Cecil Schofield, M.SC., New Zealand Geological Survey, Otahuhu.

Seven artificial lakes (in order up stream), Karapiro, Arapuni, Waipapa, Maraetai, Whakamaru, Atiamuri, and Ohakuri, have been formed by the construction of dams on the Waikato River between Hamilton and Lake Taupo for hydro-electric generating purposes. At Aratiatia Rapids a barrage was constructed and the first of a series of machines commenced to produce power in March 1964 .

All dams have been built in narrow gorges formed at points where the Waikato River has cut into rocks of a composition harder than the bulk of the rocks forming the valley floor. The dams at Karapiro and Arapuni have been built on greywacke foundations and the lakes are in low, rolling pastoral land. Waipapa, Maraetai, and Whakamaru dams and lakes are in narrow, steep-walled gorges cut in flat sheets of volcanic rock covered by pine forests on the east bank, and by scrub-covered land recently converted to pasture on the west bank. Lakes Maraetai and Whakamaru flooded part of the forest. Up stream from Whakamaru dam, the lake is flanked by craggy, rhyolite bluffs rising 1,250 ft above lake level. Atiamuri is between two large rhyolite domes covered by pine trees, and a steep-sided volcanic spine, Pohaturoa, dominates the valley floor down stream from the dam. On the west side, up stream from Atiamuri and Ohakuri, the land rises steeply and consists of a jumbled pile of coalescing volcanic domes covered by pine forest. The low, rolling country forming the north-eastern bank has been converted recently to farm land. Lake Ohakuri drowned a small area of pasture in the Whirinaki Valley. It also flooded part of Orakeikorako hot spring area, but the raising of the lake did not extensively affect the thermal area lying above lake level – indeed it has tended to improve the activity. Aratiatia station is constructed on a partly exhumed rhyolite dome, and the lake lies within the present river channel entrenched in a flat-floored valley cut in low, rolling hills of scrubcovered volcanic rocks that are being converted to pasture.

The formation of lakes on the Waikato River has resulted in additional sporting facilities and attractive new scenic lakeside roads such as that beside Lake Whakamaru. Water ski-ing is a popular sport, and the Empire Rowing Championships have been held on Lake Karapiro.

by Bruce Newton Thompson, B.SC., New Zealand Geological Survey, Department of Scientific and Industrial Research, Otahuhu.

Waikato means “flowing water” and the Waikato River, 220 miles long, is the longest river in New Zealand, rising in the snows and ice fields of Tongariro National Park. Before entering Lake Taupo it is known as the Tongariro River for part of its length. On leaving Lake Taupo it flows in a well-defined bed through steep uplands before reaching the flat plains of the middle Waikato basin or Hamilton lowlands. After passing through the Taupiri Gorge it reaches the flat country of the lower Waikato and finally enters the sea at the now defunct port of Port Waikato. Because of the effect of Lake Taupo, and the many artificial lakes along its course, river rises are not spectacular; however, the country adjacent to the river in the lower Waikato is low, and considerable inundation can occur. Serious floods usually result from a fresh from its main tributary, the Waipa River, coming at a time of high base flow in the Waikato. The greatest known flood occurred in 1907 when the peak discharge at the Taupo outfall was 7,350 cusecs, and that at Mercer in the lower Waikato was estimated as being 60,000 cusecs. Minimum flows of less than 7,000 cusecs have been recorded in the latter area.

The Waikato River is the main source of hydro-electricity in the North Island of New Zealand, many dams having been or are being constructed along the upper regions between Karapiro and Lake Taupo. It is also the site of a coal-steam power station at Mere-mere in the lower Waikato.

At one time the river was an important access route for the Maoris and early European settlers, and during the Waikato Wars several Maori pas along the river fell victim to small armoured gunboats. Owing to a shifting sandbar at the mouth, Port Waikato near the coast has not been in use for some time, but a small amount of internal trade is still done in barging sand and shingle as far up stream as Hamilton.

by James Cecil Schofield, M.SC., New Zealand Geological Survey, Otahuhu.

(c. 1790–1877).

Ngapuhi chief.

Waikato was born about 1790 and was the son of Rakau, chief of the Hikutu hapu of Ngapuhi tribe. He was a brother of Wharepoaka, a brother-in-law of Hongi Hika, and a close relative of Ruatara. In Marsden's time Waikato was an important chief of Rangihoua at the Bay of Islands. Ruatara's adventures kindled in him the desire to visit England. Accordingly, in February 1820, he sailed with Hongi and Kendall in the whaler New Zealander. While Hongi showed an interest in military matters, Waikato evinced a desire to learn all he could about agriculture and received many implements and seeds as gifts.

After his return Waikato showed himself reluctant to engage in tribal warfare. Hongi prevailed upon him to join the expedition against Te Hinaki at Thames, but Waikato was so disgusted by the orgy of cannibalism after the battle that he told Marsden he would never fight again. He refused to accompany Hongi's Rotorua expedition. The apparently inevitable tribal wars, which constantly interrupted cultivation and brought famine to all districts, so discouraged Waikato that he contemplated moving his family to New South Wales. At this time he favoured offering Hongi kingship, on condition that he would cease fighting.

On 22 January 1827, after Hongi received his mortal wound, the missionaries feared the Maoris might sack Paihia; however, Waikato and Wharepoaka undertook to protect the station. Although Waikato never embraced Christianity, he continued to protect the missionaries until after the establishment of British Sovereignty. He supported Nakahi – the cult of the serpent – a native religion based upon certain Biblical teachings, which flourished in the 1820s and 1830s. During the 1830s Waikato devoted his energies to agricultural pursuits. In 1831 he signed the chiefs' petition to William IV requesting protection. In 1841, when Maketu murdered the Robertson family at the Bay of Islands, Henry Williams asked Waikato to protect the settlers and to use his influence to bring the culprit to trial. On this occasion Waikato presented to Williams, as a guarantee of his good faith, the helmet given him by George IV. During Heke's war he sided with Nene and the British forces. In his later years he lived at Te Puna (Rangihoua) and received a pension from the Government. He died at the Bay of Islands on 17 September 1877.

Waikato and Ruatara married sisters, and one of Waikato's sisters became the second wife of Philip Tapsell.

by Bernard John Foster, M.A., Research Officer, Department of Internal Affairs, Wellington.

• Marsden's Letters and Journals, Elder, J. R. (ed.) (1932)
• The Early Journals of Henry Williams, 1826–40, Rogers, L. M. (ed.) (1961)
• New Zealand Herald, 21 Sep 1877 (Obit).

Waikaremoana lies in the Gisborne Land District on the eastern boundary of the Urewera National Park. The height of the lake is 2,015 ft above sea level and it covers 21 sq. miles. The lake is a drowned-valley system at the head of the Waikare-Taheke River and is blocked by a huge landslide several thousand years old. Surrounded by low-dipping stratified sedimentary rocks of upper Tertiary Age, the scenery is dominated by high bluffs such as Panikiri and Wairere, and long forest-clad slopes parallel to the bedding. The whole region, including the landslide at the eastern end of the lake, is blanketed by pumice ash erupted from the Taupo region some 1,800 years ago. The latest major rise in lake level and the age of the latest landslide have been dated as 2,200 years ago by the radio-carbon method.

Waikaremoana (“Sea of Rippling Waters”) figures prominently in early Maori legend, being the abode of the Tuhoe tribe or “Children of the Mist”, whose story is described by Elsdon Best in his book Tuhoe. In the European era the region was the retreat of the rebel chief Te Kooti and his followers after the Hauhau rebellion of the later Maori Wars. In still later times Maungapohatu pa, north of the lake, was the home of the Maori prophet Rua and his followers. The lake, set in a large area of forest, is a well-known scenic, fishing, and shooting resort. Three power stations on the Waikare-Taheke River – Kaitawa, Tuai, and Piripaua – use the waters of Waikaremoana for generating electricity, the installed capacity being 124,000 kW.

by George William Grindley, M.SC., New Zealand Geological Survey, Lower Hutt.

Waihou is literally translated as “new water”. The river is approximately 80 miles long and rises mainly in the Mamaku and Patetere plateaus between Putaruru and Rotorua. For most of its length it flows north-north-westwards along the eastern side of the down-faulted Hauraki depression, finally joining the sea near Thames on the eastern side of the Firth of Thames – the river also being named the Thames by the navigator Captain James Cook.

The absorbent nature of most of the catchment area prevents flash flooding except in the major tributary, the Ohinemuri River, which joins the Waihou at Paeroa and flows from the Coromandel Range to the east. Peak discharges may have exceeded 35,000 cusecs, the bulk of the discharge being from the Ohinemuri River. Minimum discharges have probably been less than 1,000 cusecs. It is navigable for small boats as far as Paeroa, 20 miles from the coast.

by James Cecil Schofield, M.SC., New Zealand Geological Survey, Otahuhu.

Waihi is situated on the Ohinemuri River, an east-bank tributary of the Waihou River, and is about 7 miles from the Bay of Plenty coast. The town occupies flat to gently undulating land. To the north and north-west are the terminal hills of the Coromandel Range, and to the south-west and south are the Waitawheta Hills which are continuous with the Kaimai Range, further south. The Paeroa-Tauranga section of the Bay of Plenty railway and the main highway pass through Waihi. By road Tauranga is 41½ miles south-east (37 miles by rail), Hamilton is 60 miles south-west (56 miles by rail), and Paeroa is 13 miles west by road or rail. Mount Maunganui, the nearest port, is 47 miles south-east by rail.

The main primary activity of the district is dairy farming, with some cattle and sheep farming. There are several sawmills in the district. Waihi is a trade and servicing centre with well developed industries which include the manufacture of radio and electronic apparatus, household appliances, footwear, furniture and joinery, and concrete products. General engineering, sawmilling, and timber treatment are also carried on. There is a boiling-down works in the town and a cheese factory 2 miles south-east.

The name Waihi is said to be of Hawaiki origin, meaning “water gushing out”. Samuel Marsden mentions springs – probably in the vicinity of Waihi – in his journal. He visited the Firth of Thames in HMS Coromandel during 1820, and on 20 July with Te Morenga and other Maoris, travelled through the Waihi district via the Karangahake Gorge to Tauranga. A few days later the party returned to the Firth of Thames along the same route. Gold seekers appear to have investigated parts of the Waihi district before 1870. Gold-bearing reefs are said to have been known in 1869 at Karangahake (8 miles south-west) and around Waitekauri (7 miles north-west). The Ohinemuri goldfield was thrown open in 1875 and active mining commenced throughout the district. In 1878 John McCombie and Robert Lee discovered an extensive lode rich in gold and silver in a knoll known as Martha Hill, immediately north of the present town. The returns from many of the early mines proved disappointing, chiefly because of the inefficient methods then used. The original Martha Mine was sold in 1890 to T. H. Russell for £3,000 and, later, was bought by the Waihi Gold Mining Co., of London. Various mines were developed at and close to Waihi, but the original company working on the Martha lode continued to be the main producer of gold-silver bullion. Another important undertaking, the Waihi Grand Junction Mine, was opened in 1890, and made good progress until 1925 when it was virtually absorbed into the Waihi Gold Mining Co. The cyanide process of ore treatment was introduced at Karangahake in 1899 and soon afterwards adopted at Waihi. The original Martha Mine closed down in June 1952 with a recorded production of gold and silver valued at £28,496,011. The output of the Waihi Grand Junction, as a separate entity, was valued at £2,500,000. Gold mining, confined chiefly to preparation of residues from former mining sites, was recommenced in the district in 1960, and the resumption of quartz mining is contemplated.

In 1884, it is said, Waihi consisted of a bare knoll with a nearby hotel, close to the Paeroa-Katikati road, then in its primitive unformed state and defined only by wheel-ruts. A township came into existence when the Martha Mine began production, and it grew with the expansion of the industry. The railway from Frankton Junction to Thames was opened for traffic to Paeroa on 20 December 1895 and was extended to Waihi on 9 November 1905. The town was constituted a borough on 18 February 1902.

POPULATION: 1951 census, 3,891; 1956 census, 3,075; 1961 census, 3,164.

by Brian Newton Davis, M.A., Vicar, St. Philips, Karori West, Wellington and Edward Stewart Dollimore, Research Officer, Department of Lands and Survey, Wellington.